Look at construction, wear and marks before the price tag. Real age shows in tool marks, uneven wear where hands and feet touch, oxidized hardware and honest repairs; reproductions tend to be too even, too clean or wrong in the details.
Start with a plan, not a wish list
Most good finds come from people who know what they collect and roughly what it sells for. Before a trip, write down two or three categories you're looking for, the measurements of any space you're filling and a ceiling price. In a big antique mall with dozens of booths, that list keeps you from spending an afternoon on things you'll never use.
It also helps to know what kind of shop you're walking into. A single-owner antique store reflects one person's eye and usually one price policy. An antique mall rents space to many dealers, so quality and pricing change from booth to booth. A flea market is cheaper and rougher, and the best pieces go early.
Furniture: read the construction
- Joints. Hand-cut dovetails are slightly irregular, with fewer, wider pins. Machine dovetails are perfectly even. Even spacing doesn't mean a piece is fake, but it dates it to roughly the late 1800s or later.
- Tool marks. Look under tops and inside drawers. Curved saw marks come from circular saws; straight, uneven marks and plane chatter suggest older hand work.
- Wear. Genuine wear sits where people touch: drawer pulls, arm rests, stretchers where feet rested. Distressing applied all over, or in places nobody touches, is a warning sign.
- Hardware and screws. Old screws have off-center slots and uneven threads. Check whether pulls have been replaced: extra holes or "ghost" outlines are clues.
- Secondary woods and backs. Mismatched woods, new plywood backs or fresh wood in hidden places point to later repairs or a "marriage" of two pieces.
Glass, pottery and china
Hold glass up to the light and run a finger round rims for chips and "flea bites". Check bases for wear rings consistent with age; a perfectly unworn base on a supposedly old piece deserves a second look. Pottery and porcelain should be checked for hairline cracks (tap gently: a dull sound can mean a crack), glued repairs and overpainted chips, which show up under a phone flashlight or a UV light. Maker's marks help, but marks are faked too, so treat them as one clue among several.
Jewelry, silver and small metalwork
Look for hallmarks or purity stamps (sterling, 925, 14K) and check clasps, which are often replaced. Worn edges on stamps and soft, even wear on high points suggest age. A 10x jeweler's loupe costs little and shows solder repairs and re-tipped prongs. If a piece is expensive, ask the dealer for a written description of metal and stones; reputable sellers don't mind.
Questions worth asking the dealer
- Where did this come from? (an estate, a picker, an auction)
- What's been repaired, replaced or refinished?
- Is the price firm, or is there a dealer or cash discount?
- Can you hold it for a day while I measure or think?
- Do you deliver, or know someone who does?
Good dealers enjoy these questions. Vague answers about condition are a reason to slow down, not a reason to argue.
Red flags
- Lots of identical "antiques" in one booth, each with the same artificial wear.
- Fresh paint or stain that smells new.
- Cast iron, signs or toys that look old but are suspiciously crisp, light or brightly colored (common reproduction categories).
- A story that's better than the object: provenance you can't verify shouldn't add much to the price.
Questions
How can you tell if furniture is really antique?
Check joints, tool marks, wear patterns, hardware and secondary woods together. No single clue proves age; several consistent clues make a strong case.
What should I bring to an antique store?
A tape measure, phone with a flashlight, a short list of what you're after, room measurements and a budget. A loupe helps for jewelry and silver.
Is it rude to ask about repairs?
No. Asking what has been repaired or replaced is normal and helps you judge the price.